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        Cyrille Holota finds an outlet for his modern French cooking in an American steakhouse
            by Besha Rodell
            It&#039;s the little things &mdash; a ma&icirc;tre d&#039; carrying your drink from the bar to your table; the waiter&#039;s reassuring but unobtrusive presence throughout your meal. And it&#039;s the big things &mdash; a piece of fish cooked to exquisite perfection, its skin crispy, its sauce delicate; a plate of food so fussed over and adorned it looks like a piece of art.&hellip;
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