&ldquo;The ocean is part of me. Sometimes, I just have to go down there to smell the ocean,&rdquo; said elder Simeon Kvasnikoff of Port Graham. 
Tied as they are to the sea, the Sugpiat of Port Graham and Nanwalek are reading the unfolding story of climate change in grasses and ice storms. Elder Nick Tanape notices bears aren&rsquo;t quite as fat as they should be before heading off to a winter&rsquo;s sleep.
Chitons, a shellfish stuck to rocks and exposed only on low tides, are dwindling alarmingly in number. 